1920s silver cushion vintage Rolex Oyster watch

Date:           1928

Case:            Silver, 32 x 32mm

Movement: Rolex Prima

Dial:             Champagne, with gilt Arabic numerals

Lugs:            16mm

A rare, early Rolex Oyster watch from 1928. 

A 1928, silver cushion Rolex Oyster watch. The case measures 32 x 32mm, 16mm lug size with an Oyster Patent winding crown. The case is signed RWCLtd (Rolex Watch Company Limited), Rolex, 20 World’s Records and hallmarked Glasgow 1928. The manual wind, Prima movement is signed Rolex, Timed to 6 positions, For all climates with 15 jewels. The champagne dial has raised gilt Arabic numerals with a subsidiary seconds dial and fine gilt ‘fleches’ hands. The dial is signed Rolex Oyster above the centre.

The Rolex Oyster watch

Following the end of World War I, global trading resumed and Rolex watches were being sent abroad, particularly to the the hot and humid tropical countries of the British Empire. Many of the watches were found to have rusted on arrival following a long damp voyage!

Originally watch cases were bought in, consisting of 3 parts, case body, back and bezel. The back and bezel were hinged to the body and would snap shut. The hinges however stopped the case from being waterproof due the gap. In 1914 W&D produced a watch with a threaded bezel and back, made by Dennison after 1916. Dennison, already reknown case makers were also milling the edges of the back and bezel, thus enabling the case to be opened without instruments. This was adopted by Rolex and is still a key feature of the Oyster wristwatch.

Hans Wilsdorf (co-founder of Rolex) was determined to produce a ‘water-proof’ watch and commented;

“We must succeed in making a watch case so tight that our movements will be permanently guaranteed against damage caused by dust, perspiration, heat and cold. Only then will the perfect accuracy of the Rolex watch be secured.”

The Rolex Oyster watch was produced a few years later in 1926 with a ‘three-piece’ case, (the front and back screwing into the body). An iconic design that has become probably the best selling waterproof wristwatch.