1930s 9ct gold cushion vintage Rolex Oyster watch
Date: 1938
Case: 9ct gold, 32 x 32mm
Movement: Manual wind
Dial: Gun metal, Arabic numerals to the quarters
Lugs: 18mm
A 1938, 9ct gold cushion vintage Rolex Oyster watch. The case measures 32 x 32 mm with 18mm lugs and a flat bezel. The case is signed R.W.C. Ltd. (Rolex Watch Company Limited), hallmarked Glasgow 1938. The manual wind movement is signed Rolex with 15 Rubies and patented super balance. The rare grey ‘gun metal’ dial has luminous Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9, an outside white minute track, with centre sweep seconds and fine blued steel ‘lumed’ hands. The dial is signed Rolex Oyster above the centre.
The Rolex Oyster
Following the end of World War I, global trading resumed and Rolex watches were being sent abroad, particularly to the the hot and humid tropical countries of the British Empire. Many of the watches were found to have rusted on arrival following a long damp voyage!
Originally cases were bought in, consisting of 3 parts, case body, back and bezel. The back and bezel were hinged to the body and would snap shut. The hinges however stopped the case from being waterproof due the gap. In 1914 W&D produced a watch with a threaded bezel and back, made by Dennison after 1916. Dennison, already reknown case makers were also milling the edges of the back and bezel, thus enabling the case to be opened without instruments. This was adopted by Rolex and is still a key feature of the Oyster.
Hans Wilsdorf (co-founder of Rolex) was determined to produce a ‘water-proof’ watch and commented;
“We must succeed in making a watch case so tight that our movements will be permanently guaranteed against damage caused by dust, perspiration, heat and cold. Only then will the perfect accuracy of the Rolex watch be secured.”
The Rolex Oyster watch was produced a few years later in 1926 with a ‘three-piece’ case, (the front and back screwing into the body). An iconic design that has become probably the best selling waterproof wristwatch.
The ‘Oyster’ name was registered in 1926, an inspiration of Wilsdorf when he struggled to open an oyster at dinner.
